Jacquard Stitch and Fair Isle Stitch are two techniques that knitters use to create colorful patterns, but they have their own unique styles and approaches.
What is Jacquard Stitch?
Jacquard knitting is all about creating intricate, multi-colored designs in fabric. You can do it by hand or on special knitting machines (WvG typically uses Stoll or Shima Seiki machines) , and it involves working with one color at a time while carrying the other colors across the back of the fabric. These "floats" are strands of yarn that hang out on the reverse side until you need them again.
The floats in Jacquard can get pretty long depending on how far apart the color changes are in the pattern. This technique is perfect for complex designs—think high-end knitwear with large, detailed patterns. Since Jacquard can accommodate many colors in a single row, it’s versatile for those big, show-stopping designs.
What is Fair Isle Stitch?
Fair Isle knitting has a different vibe. It’s a traditional technique from the Shetland Islands, and it’s all about working with two colors per row to create repeating patterns, usually in the form of geometric shapes like stars or crosses.
The difference here is that the unused yarn in Fair Isle is carried in short floats on the back. Because the color changes happen frequently—typically every few stitches—the floats stay short and neat, keeping the back of the fabric tidy and the tension even. Fair Isle is often used in classic, cozy pieces like sweaters and hats, with small, repetitive motifs running in horizontal bands.
So, What’s the Difference?
-
Number of Colors: Jacquard can handle several colors in one row, allowing for more complex designs. Fair Isle sticks to two colors per row and focuses on smaller, repeating patterns.
-
Float Length: Jacquard floats can be long because the pattern might require skipping larger areas of fabric. In Fair Isle, the floats are shorter since the colors change more frequently, making the fabric smoother and less prone to snagging.
-
Pattern Style: Jacquard is ideal for large, intricate designs with big blocks of color. Fair Isle goes for smaller, geometric motifs that repeat in bands.
-
Fabric Weight: Jacquard tends to be heavier since multiple strands of yarn are carried across each row. Fair Isle, with only two colors per row, creates a lighter fabric.
Which One’s Right for You?
If you want something bold and intricate with lots of colors, Jacquard is the way to go. But if you prefer traditional patterns with a more streamlined, lightweight feel, Fair Isle is your best bet. Both are beautiful, but they each have their own strengths depending on what kind of knit you are looking for. Pro tip: The floats can cause snags and pulling. For this reason WvG prefers to use Intarsia.